July 2013 - Walking the Herriot Way

We went to Hawes in the first week of July 2013, with the intention of walking the Herriot Way, using our motorhome as a base. We stayed a the CC site in Hawes - a good standard, as you expect, but surrounded by trees, so no view of surrounding countryside. You could have been anywhere! There was also lots of gates and rules. We moved for the second half of the week to Honeycott - just the other side of the town. Equally good facilities, (albeit much smaller) cheaper than CC, cheaper wifi, and great views!

 Hawes is a great little market town, and in the warm July weather, very vibrant. It was harvest time, and farmers and their families were working hard to bring the harvest in whilst the weather was good. In the evenings, drinkers spilled out onto the pavements lending a really good atmosphere to the place. We ate at the White Hart Country Inn - good food, and had a drink in all the other hostelries in the town across the days we were there. The pub with the waterfall, The Green Dragon did great food too, and it's not more than a two mile walk from Hawes. There was an impressive artists studio opposite the pub, a lady who makes fantastic pictures with merino wool felt. We were lucky to be able to go the Hawes 'Great Midsummer Bash' on the Saturday night, a local music festival. The Burger Queen burgers were fab ( local too).We enjoyed Sugartown, and the headliners The Exploding Buddhas.

Eaten by midges at the Bash

We walked the Herriot Way, a four day walk from Hawes, using local buses and the local 'dial a ride' community transport. First day we caught the bus from Hawes to the start of the walk, Aysgarth. We followed the River Ure, and a disused railway track back to Hawes, via Hardraw Force, whcih is in the 'back garden' of The Green Dragon. (However, we didn't visit the Green Dragon then, we went back another time).

 The second leg we set off from Hawes, up Great Shunner Fell, part of the Pennine Way, and onto Keld. We had booked a taxi back from Keld. We awaited the taxi whilst having a restorative beverage at the Keld Lodge Hotel. Whilst we were there, lots of walkers on Wainwrights Coast to Coast trail arrived. Apparently this is a popular overnight spot for this route.

At the top of Great Shunner Fell

Cairn on Great Shunner Fell

We ended up not walking the following day, as we had a bit of trouble with our 'van. No gas coming through. BB established it was the regulator, so we had to go an get a new one. We have to pack everything up to run up the motorway to Catterick Caravans, where we were able to buy a replacement. This was also our last night on the CC site, we needed to move the next day, so we had a couple of enforced rest days. This was when we walked to the Green Dragon, and bought a ticket to go and see Hardraw Force.

Hadraw Force

By now, we had discovered the local 'Dial a Ride' white bus, and we telephoned and arranged to be collected early the next morning to be transported to Keld, to begin the next leg of the walk to Reeth. We arranged to be collected that afternoon from the village green in Reeth. This leg was another climb up to Gunnerside Moor, where there were remains of the lead mining industry. We met some lovely locals when we stopped for a break. This is now a grouse moor, and the grouse can pop out to surprise you! There were no birds of prey to be seen though. Rumour has it that the grouse moor owners don't like birds of prey.........

We had excellent fish & chips that evening from the nearest takeaway to our campsite. There are facilities a plenty in Hawes. For the final leg of our walk we employed the helpful dial a ride man again. Essentially you can book the minibus outside of 'rush hour' morning & evening, when it does the commuting trips to and from the station to a timetable.Our driver, a volunteer,  was very nice, with lots of local knowledge, having retired to this area from Manchester. Reeth to Aysgarth, via Castle Bolton, which was very interesting - we really love arriving somewhere on foot.


Travelling home ( via Liverpool to see some old friends) we headed to a CS -  Lapwing Hall Farm, with a fantastic view of the Roaches. There is a pub nearby, The Lazy Trout, which served a great meal. We diverted to Leek to buy a local map, and it was quite stressful to find somewhere to park the Motorhome. We stayed at Lapwing Hall Farm for 2 nights - it was very peaceful, and we really enjoyed the view.  We did the Roaches walk, from our campsite all the way to Lud's Church (apparently the inspiration for Sir Gawain’s Green Chapel) and back. We missed out Hen Cloud, saving that for another time. It was fairly challenging, as there was a good deal of scrambling up rocks from the approach we took. We also has to pass by a farm where the farmer seemed to have 'flooded' the footpath with slurry, causing us to get slurry over the top of our boots, quite yukky, to be honest, and right at the beginning of the walk. The Roaches are a gritstone cliffs, and there are many wierd rock formations. It was quite busy, with walkers and climbers, ascending some difficult rock faces. It was a clear day, and we had brilliant views across to the Cheshire plains.

Trig point on the Roaches

On the way back south we visited Calke Abbey NT site in Derbyshire. Calke Abbey has been preserved in the state in which the NT took it over; a state of decay. As with all NT properties is presented in a very interesting way. At the gatehouse we were given a CD, to listen to as we approached the house. It is a long drive, and an actor narrates the voice of the last owner, so before you arrive you begin to understand the story.

Then we really did head for home, after a 19 day tour, altogether a bit fitter!

July 2014 - North Downs Way, Westwell to Ditchling

July 2014, walking another section of the North Downs Way. We walked from Westwell to Ditchling, estimated by BB (without a map, apparently!) to be 12 miles. It was actually 17. I had thought this would be a gentle re introduction to walking after completing the London to Brighton Trek for the BHF on June21/22. Not a bit of it. Jeffrey was with us, and with a little tlc (Bonios and litres of water) he made it too.  We saw lots of these snails, called Roman Snails, we could have collected enough for a meal (but we didn't!). We also saw this cross above Lenham, a tribute to the war dead of two world wars, and this old monk on a bench above Harrietsham. 

I drove on Friday evening to Ditchling, where I parked the car strategically for the return to Westwell on Saturday at the completion of the walk ( making time for a sneaky G & T) and waiting for BB to collect me in the motorhome.

We stayed at Dun Hill Farm camp site at Westwell.It was very lovely on Friday evening, and after a quick drink we walked through the pea field opposite to the local pub, The Wheel Inn, for a meal. IT was very good. It began to rain just after we got back to the site, and so we repaired to bed. 

We set off the next morning at around 11a.m. We had thought we would arrive at the Cock Horse Detling around 4p.m. In the event it was nearer 6p.m. A quick pint and a packet of crisps (£9.50) we headed back to the camp site. We managed to sit out for a cup of tea, but by the time we'd showered it was raining, so we had to eat 'indoors' - not what we'd been hoping for!

Between leaving in the morning and getting back at night, the campsite had really filled up, particularly with an organised school event - we guessed it might be DoE awards, as we had met many groups of young people during the day competing for the silver level. Jeffrey loves people, particularly young people, and when we went out for his midnight tiddle he rushed across the campsite and entered a massive tent. Cue lots of squeals - probably Jeffrey giving them a friendly licking, before Jeffrey was quickly escorted out held by the collar by a burly security man (who was very nice, actually). 

Easter 2015

We are unable to take much time out at Easter due to the Nursery business, but the motorhome provides the ideal last minute getaway, providing you can find somewhere to park overnight!

So Good Friday, where to go? We have always fancied eating at the Three Chimneys in Biddenden, and yes, they were happy to let us park overnight in their car park. Voted the Best Dining Pub in Kent 2015 (and in several of the recent years) this short break is off to a good start! We managed to book Saturday night at Braid Farm, a CL at Smarden. Easter is always busy, and many places were booked, so we were lucky to find this.

We arrived to park at the pub about 4p.m. (dinner booking for 8p.m.) with the intention of walking up ur appetite. Also, parking in pub car parks can be tricky, so if possible we arrive early to pick our spot. We tucked ourselves into the furthest corner. After a cup of tea and a hot cross bun we set off on our walk:

A circular 6km 'Napoleonic stagger' starting and finishing at a pub in the Kentish Low Weald
http://www.allaboutyou.com/country/walks/country-walks-Biddenden-Kent-walk

This circular walk brought us back to the pub via Sissinghurst Castle, which is very picturesque. We found a very unusual stile and met lambs who quite clearly had not seen a dog before; otherwise they wouldn’t have been so inquisitive!

National Trust 'counter weight' stile

Sissinghurst Castle

We arrived back with time only for a quick change of clothes and an apero, before dinner in the pub. It is a lovely 15th Century building, bursting at the seams with people having a drink, and a full restaurant – they must be doing something right! The food was fab, the service swift and efficient. We met some lovely people, all very friendly.

We began Saturday by running up to Bewl Water, but at £8 for a vehicle, (£4 per person on foot) thought that the cost was a bit steep just to have a ‘look see’. It was actually very cold and damp, so having a walk here did not appeal.

We trundled off, as planned to visit Scotney Castle at Lamberhurst. We try to make good use of our NT membership. We were given a timed entrance ticket to the Victorian House and wandered down to the ‘romantic’ ruined castle first. Jeff had to stay in the van, so he authoritatively assumed the driver’s seat.

Scotney was very interesting – like most of these places are; inhabited right up to 2006 by Betty, whose husband Christopher Hussey had handed it to the NT upon his death in 1970. Most surprising fact was that Margaret Thatcher rented an apartment here throughout the 70’s & 80’s. It is an idyllic location, but was too cold for a walk in this exposed landscape. Somewhere that is definitely worth a visit in better weather. We felt sorry for the staff manning the Easter Egg Hunt, stuck outside in the cold weather.


Next we went to Bedgebury Pinetum, believing that a walk in the Forest would be more protected. £10 entrance here. £10 is your entrance and parking. It’s £2 more for a small map of the location!!!! They have to make their money somewhere I guess. We chose to do the 6 mile woodland walk, sharing it with leisure and family cyclists. Jeffrey was able to run free, provided he was kept under control. There are some serious mountain biking trails here, (bike hire available) and a ‘Go Ape’ The children’s playground looks excellent too. Go Ape charges £33 for a ‘Gorilla’. I suppose that is an adult, so it would be an expensive day out to do that, methinks! Anyway, they were busy, as they would be on a Bank Holiday.




We retired, muddy, to our ‘van for a late lunch.


Off then to our night time stop, Braid Farm, Smarden, checking out the local pubs as we went. It was lovely and sunny when we got there, (probably should have waited longer to go for a walk) but it remained very cold, despite the sunshine. Braid Farm has a small colony of Wallabies, and two of them have Joey’s, so they were very cute to look at. Much fiddling with our digital TV aerial produced only ITV for us to watch, so we missed the final of the voice. We did see ‘Back in the Room’ which was very amusing, but I still feel uncomfortable about hypnotism as entertainment, even if the participants are willing, it somehow seems a bit exploitative.


Braid Farm, with hook up was £15. Unbeknown to us, overnight we sank into the clay, and could not drive off in the morning – mats or ‘breadbaskets’ were required really. The site owner very kindly got his 4 x 4 Daihatsu to pull us out, but that wasn’t enough. We were by now a spectacle on site, and gathering onlookers. Fortunately a few decided to help, and with 6 volunteers, plus Daihatsu we managed to move off. We stopped to remove the tow rope etc., only to find ourselves marooned again! The owner & volunteers obliged once more (very embarrassing) and we got towed to the gate.





Back home within the hour, proving that you don’t have to go far to have fun !

Walking the White to Dark - September 2012

We have completed a couple of long distance walks, using B &B’s and a courier service, and have often talked about trying a long walk using our motorhome, so decided this was a great opportunity to give it a try. We chose the ‘white to dark’ walk, from Bakewell to Hope – www.livefortheoutdoors.com/white2dark

We arranged this last minute, en route even, but if you are particular about the facilities you need on sites, I would advise better advance organisation! There was very little available to book, September seems to be as busy as the school holidays these days. Must be the power of the grey £!

                                    This is Park House Campsite - breakfast in the sun

We kicked off on Thursday 6^th September, travelling from Dover to the Bakewell area, to stay at Park House Campsite, for 3 nights. The owner is careful with the ‘mix’ of campers (tents:motorhomes) as she doesn’t like it to be too crowded. It is basically a field that surround the house, there are trees, so mostly shaded and sheltered, but also some sunny pitches. Quieter to the back of the house, but spectacular views to the front, so for us, worth the daytime traffic noise. There are clean toilets and showers, no electricity, no grey or black waste facilities either. 

                                                  The view from Park House campsite

 

We spent some time in Bakewell before going to the site. It’s an interesting town with many shops, and a very useful visitor centre, where the staff are extremely helpful.  Follow the signs for parking that seem to take you out of town –actually it brings you round the back of the town, across the river, and the town is just a short walk across a footbridge from the car park. Plenty of good modern public conveniences here too.

We have not had much ‘outside’ time when out in our ‘van this year – we seem to have chosen the most rainy times to go away!  It was a lovely evening, so we sat outside for a drink before we went up to the Monsal Head Hotel for dinner, just a 2 minute walk up the road. Dinner was OK, portions small, expensive, poor service. Actually the young man behind the bar was lovely, but he was working alone, an almost impossible situation, given the amounts of customers. We had read similar reviews on www.campsite.co.uk . Should have taken more notice, perhaps?

Friday 7^th September. It was a lovely morning so we cooked and ate our breakfast outside in the sunshine, what treat! We set out for the first leg of our walk in great spirits. We walked up to Monsal Head to get the bus back to Bakewell, where we set off across the meadow. We walked to Litton – great walk, quite easy, especially the Monsal Trail, which is a disused railway line. We met Roy Hattersley walking his dog! It was our intention to catch the bus back to Monsal Head, and we just made it to Litton in time – we thought – but we stood on the wrong side of the road and missed the bus. That meant a 2 hour wait for the next one, so we repaired to the Red Lion. Great pub, the walk guide did say ‘not to be missed’. Good beer selection, food looked great, locals were friendly and chatty. On hearing that we’d missed our bus the landlord offered us a lift, as he had an afternoon appointment in Bakewell. Result! Spent the rest of the day relaxing, and ate in our van that evening.

Saturday 8^th –We woke up today to thick fog, which did make us wonder if we should set off over the hills & dales. It seemed to be slowly lifting, so we again took the bus from Monsal Head, this time to Litton for the next leg to Hathersage. Today we were due to pass from ‘white to dark’ via Eyam, the ‘plague’ village, where we visited the museum, all very interesting, and we had lovely weather all day. At Hathersage (where there is an open air swimming pool) we had a drink in the Little John pub, whilst waiting for the bus back to Monsal Head. We spent the afternoon trying to find a campsite to move on to next. The final leg of the walk was Hathersage to Hope. We needed a campsite in the Hope Valley/Castleton area. Eventually we found a C&CC cs site – Fields Farm near Castleton, for the next 4 nights. On Saturday, our last night at Monal Head, we ate at the Packhorse pub in Little Longstone, a 10 minute walk from our site. Booking advisable at weekends. Excellent food, great value.

Sunday 9^th – moving site, to Castleton, so visited Chatsworth on the way. Another lovely day. Shopped at the Chatsworth award winning farm shop for tea!

Monday 10^th – Set off on a grey day for the final leg of our walk. We took the bus to Hathersage, from the main road close to the cs. We walked back to Hope, via Stannage Edge, down to the Ladybower reservoir (Lovely pub, where we sheltered from the rain) and then back up Win Hill, before descending to Hope. For me, Win Hill was a hill too far at the end of a long wet day. I guess the point of it being on the walk, is to be able to say you did it! It is certainly a prominent feature in the local landscape. Hope was only 10 minute walk from our camp site, so we arrived back at our van on foot today. 

                                                          Bryan on Stanage Edge

                                                         Lynda on Stanage Edge 

                                                           Trig point on Stanege Edge


 We spent the next couple of says in and around Castleton. We walked up Mam Tor, and visited the Speedwell Cavern. We also checked out a couple of local pubs, spending a rainy afternoon in Ye Old Nags Head with a variety of real ales in front of a real fire with the papers! Lovely. 

                                                     Selfie at the Trig point on Mam Tor